Acne
Understanding Acne: Why It Happens and How to Treat It
At The Lab, we take acne seriously because we understand the emotional and physical toll it can take. Acne isn’t just a surface issue it’s a complex skin condition that starts much deeper. Our goal is to help you understand what’s really happening beneath your skin, so you can make sense of your breakouts, work with your skin (not against it), and finally get lasting results.
What Is Acne?
Inflamed Acne presents as red, sore, and sometimes deep pimples. These can include a mix of pustules (visible surface pimples) and larger non-pustular lesions such as papules, nodules, and cysts.
Non-Inflamed Acne, on the other hand, is a little more subtle. It often shows as open and closed comedones in other words, blackheads and whiteheads that make the skin appear bumpy or “studded.”
Acne develops due to an infection within the pilosebaceous unit, which includes the hair follicle and the oil gland. It commonly appears in areas of high oil (sebum) production the face, jawline, upper neck, chest, and back.
The Four Main Contributors to Inflamed Acne
1. Sebum Quality and Production
One of the biggest characteristics of acne is excess sebum production and more importantly, the quality of that oil. Hormones such as testosterone, insulin-like growth factors, and cortisol (our stress hormone) stimulate oil production. When oil becomes thick and waxy, it clogs pores and forms microcomedones those invisible “little ticking time bombs,” as we call them at The Lab.
What you see on your skin today likely started forming 3 - 4 months ago at a microscopic level. That’s why acne treatment is a journey it takes time to stop new microcomedones from forming.
Stress plays a major role too. It increases inflammation and stimulates sebaceous glands to produce oil more rapidly. That’s why we often recommend starting internal support like Relax supplements early in your acne program.
We also work internally and externally to improve oil quality using essential fatty acids (EFAs). When your skin’s oil is balanced, your cells can hold onto more water and that hydration helps to push out trapped congestion. (Yes, sometimes early breakouts are actually a good sign it means your skin is clearing from the inside out!)
2. Retention Hyperkeratosis - When Dead Skin Cells Don’t Shed Fast Enough
Retention Hyperkeratosis occurs when dead skin cells become “sticky” and don’t shed properly. This is often what causes that rough texture and constant urge to exfoliate.
This happens when the skin lacks water and essential fatty acids, preventing a natural shedding process. The skin has a natural enzyme called Stratum Corneum Chymotryptic Enzyme (SCCE) that dissolves the bonds holding cells together, but it can only function when there’s enough water in the skin.
To fix this, we focus on repairing the barrier (which keeps water in) using EFAs and DMK Enzyme Therapy, which floods the skin with water and oxygen to restore balance.
3. C. Acnes Bacteria and Inflammation
Your skin’s microbiome includes countless bacteria and microorganisms, and one of them is C. Acnes bacteria (previously called P. acnes). Everyone has it whether you suffer from acne or not.
In acne-prone skin, the sebum is often thick and fast-flowing, which, combined with dead cells, causes a blockage inside the follicle. When this happens, the bacteria multiply deeper in the skin and produce Lipase, a by-product that’s highly inflammatory.
The more oil and dead cells trapped in the follicle, the happier these bacteria become and the more inflammation they create. That’s why managing both oil flow and cell turnover is essential to clearing acne.
4. An Impaired Barrier
Here’s how it all connects: When oil becomes too thick, it struggles to reach the surface. Without that natural oil flow, your protective barrier can’t lock in moisture. Without water in the skin, your desquamating enzymes (the ones responsible for exfoliation) can’t function.
This leads to poor exfoliation, clogged pores, and even more breakouts. It’s a full circle everything comes back to a healthy barrier and a balanced oil-to-water ratio.
So if you’ve been over-exfoliating, pause right there. You’re likely stripping away your barrier and making things worse, not better.
Lifestyle Tips for Inflamed Acne
Tip 1: Don’t Over Exfoliate
Over-exfoliating removes the skin’s protective barrier and slows down the natural shedding of dead skin which actually causes more blockages. Instead, use your Micro Peel one to two times per week as directed by your therapist. It gently removes debris without irritation.
Tip 2: Avoid Excess Touching or Picking
Squeezing sore, red pimples causes cell walls to rupture, spreads bacteria, and increases the risk of scarring. Instead, visit the clinic for LED Light Therapy or professional extractions both are safe, effective, and minimise damage.
Tip 3: Use Ice to Reduce Inflammation
Rub an ice cube over affected areas for 4 -10 minutes in circular motions. This helps calm inflammation. Follow with Acu Therm, blot the excess, and finish with Revitosin in the evening.
Tip 4: Keep Your Phone Clean
Your phone collects bacteria that can transfer to your face. Use earphones when possible, and clean your phone screen daily.
Tip 5: Treat Inside and Out
True acne correction happens when you address the skin topically and internally. This means using your home care correctly and taking internal supplements like EFAs, Zinc, Relax, and gut health support. In some cases, we also refer clients to a naturopath for additional testing on intolerances or hormonal imbalances.
Things to Avoid
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Highly inflammatory foods such as sugars, dairy, wheat, seaweed, fast food, peanuts, and other high-iodine foods
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Vitamin B12 (unless deficient), high doses of Biotin, or iodine-heavy supplements (like Hair, Skin & Nail or some prenatal formulas)
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Over-exfoliating with harsh scrubs or acid-based products
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“Drying” products such as micellar waters, toners, or non-prescribed benzoyl peroxide
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Unprotected sun exposure, it might feel nice, but it increases sebum production
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Chronic stress, introduce stress-reducing activities and consider Relax supplements
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Touching your skin frequently, resting your phone on your cheek, or not changing pillowcases often enough
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Fabric softeners and leave-in conditioners that leave residue on your pillow and skin
At Home Acne Treatments
DMK Micro Peel + Acu Masque
1 tsp Micro Peel + Acu Masque or Foamy Lift with Exoderma Kit
Directions: Apply Micro Peel to cleansed skin and leave for 5–10 minutes. Rinse, then apply Acu Masque and leave for 30 - 45 minutes depending on the option used. Rinse and follow with your night routine.
Red Vein or Acu Therm and Home Enzyme
Red Vein Crème + Herb & Mineral Mist or Acu Therm + Foamy Lift with Exoderma Kit
Directions: Apply a small amount of Red Vein Crème to cleansed skin, mist with Herb & Mineral Mist, and massage for 3 - 5 minutes. For Acu Therm, apply a small amount to red, sore pimples, leave on for a few minutes until the skin flushes, then wipe away the excess. Follow with your home enzyme kit and rinse after 45 minutes.
Note: Redness and heat are a normal and intended response with both Red Vein Crème and Acu Therm.
In Clinic Treatments
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DMK Enzyme Therapy with exfoliants such as Alkaline Wash, Pseudo Heat Peel, Salicylic or Enzymatic Peels (Levels 2 - 4 combinations)
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Exfoliation with LED Light Therapy
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Dermapen for post-acne scarring
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O-Biome Oxygen Therapy | Clear Skin
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Juvenate Hydration & Vitamin A Infusions
Your Next Step:
Book a Professional Acne Consultation
Acne can be complex, but it’s never hopeless. At The Lab, we combine advanced clinical treatments with holistic skin education and tailored home care to help you get real, lasting results.
If you’re ready to understand your skin, reduce inflammation, and finally see clear, confident results book your Acne Consultation today. Our skin therapists will guide you through a full analysis, treatment plan, and support you every step of your journey.
👉 Book your Acne Consultation at The Lab Masterton
What Is Non-Inflamed Acne?
Acne has four main contributing factors:
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Thickened oil
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Fast cell turnover
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Keratin plugging (clogged pores)
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High pH levels, which indicate an impaired barrier function
Non-inflamed acne presents in two grades:
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Grade 1: The mildest form, consisting mostly of open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
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Grade 2: A unique type where the face becomes covered in whiteheads that don’t progress into blackheads. This is called maturation arrest the whiteheads continue to enlarge, but the pore opening never widens enough to release the trapped material.
From here, the acne scale progresses to Grades 3 and 4 (Inflamed Acne), which include papules and pustules along with the milder comedones.
Non-inflamed acne can be persistent, often caused by deeper blockages that don’t trigger the same redness or inflammation you might associate with typical pimples.
What Triggers Non-Inflamed Acne?
There isn’t one single cause for acne-prone skin it’s usually a combination of genetic, hormonal, and environmental factors. Common triggers include:
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Hormonal fluctuations
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Stress
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Certain medications
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Climate changes
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Cosmetic ingredients that clog pores
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Genetic predisposition
If both parents had acne, there’s a 75% chance their children will too. If only one parent did, the likelihood is still around 50%.
Stress and hormonal imbalances are some of the biggest aggravating factors. When the body is under stress, the pituitary gland signals the adrenal glands to release androgens (male hormones), which increase oil production. This sets off a cycle of excess sebum, blockages, and more congestion — the perfect recipe for ongoing non-inflamed breakouts.
Foods to Avoid (and Why)
What you eat can have a powerful impact on your skin’s behaviour. Certain foods can trigger inflammation, imbalance hormones, and affect the quality of your skin’s oil.
Dairy
Cow’s milk contains Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF-1), which is designed to make baby cows grow quickly. In humans, it triggers inflammation and increased oil activity — not ideal for acne-prone skin.
High Iodine Foods
Seaweed, spirulina, large amounts of shellfish, and greasy takeaway foods can all worsen congestion and inflammation.
Excessive Gluten
Can increase inflammation in some people, especially when combined with a diet high in processed foods.
Too Much Coffee
Coffee raises cortisol (the stress hormone), which increases oil production. If your coffee habit feels more like a survival tool, it may be contributing to your breakouts.
High Sugar Foods
Foods with a high glycaemic index (like white bread or pastries) cause spikes in insulin, which enlarges oil glands and leads to congestion.
Supplements to Watch
Vitamin B12, Biotin, and Whey Protein are common culprits. Many prenatal and hair/skin/nail supplements contain these in high doses — if you started breaking out after taking new supplements, check the ingredients.
Fatty and Fried Foods
Delicious but problematic. Foods high in saturated fats, like bacon and fried snacks, can increase inflammation and slow detoxification, contributing to clogged pores.
Peanuts and Peanut Butter
Often high in omega-6 fatty acids, which promote inflammation in acne-prone individuals.
Foods to Include for Clearer Skin
A diet rich in whole, unprocessed foods and 2–3 litres of water daily can help flush toxins and support healthy oil flow. Add fresh vegetables to every meal, enjoy fruit in moderation, and focus on foods that reduce inflammation and nourish your skin from within.
Best Skin-Supporting Foods and Supplements
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Almonds: Keep cell membranes hydrated and skin supple
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Berries: Packed with antioxidants
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Spinach: Rich in antioxidants and minerals
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Walnuts: Full of omega-3 fatty acids
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Wild Salmon: High in essential fatty acids
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Broccoli: Detoxifies and purifies the body
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Green Tea & Turmeric: Reduce inflammation naturally
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Pre- and Probiotics: Support gut health (try Regula8 Digestive TuneUp)
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Zinc: Supports skin healing and immune function
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Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Found in salmon, mackerel, cod liver oil, oysters, sardines, flaxseeds, and chia seeds
If you don’t get enough omega-3s through food, supplements like DMK Ultra EFA or Nordic Naturals Ultimate Omega are excellent go-to options.
Home Hacks to Avoid
We know it’s tempting to experiment with quick fixes, but some popular “hacks” can actually make acne worse.
Avoid:
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Applying toothpaste or tea tree oil directly to breakouts
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Using methylated spirits or harsh alcohol-based toners
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Applying heavy oils like coconut, rosehip, or lanolin
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Using benzoyl peroxide without professional guidance
These can damage your skin barrier, increase inflammation, and lead to more congestion.
Your Next Step:
Book a Professional Acne Consultation
If you’re dealing with persistent congestion or those under-the-skin whiteheads that never seem to go away, it’s time to take a professional approach.
At The Lab, we look at your skin from every angle lifestyle, diet, hormones, barrier function, and internal health to uncover what’s truly driving your breakouts. Our therapists combine advanced clinical treatments with customised home care and education, so your skin can heal, rebalance, and finally stay clear.
👉 Book your Acne Consultation at The Lab Masterton today and start your journey to clearer, calmer skin.
Home Prescriptives
Cleansers
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DMK Acu Klenz: Deep-cleansing gel with salicylic acid to exfoliate and keep pores clean while drying existing acne.
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DMK Deep Pore Cleanser: Gentle foaming cleanser that removes debris from deep within the pores without stripping.
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O Cosmedics Gentle Antioxidant Cleanser: Hydrating and antioxidant-rich, deep cleans while protecting barrier health.
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Juvenate Photo Cleanse: Balances pH, repels toxins, and calms irritation with amino acids and antioxidants.
Moisturisers
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DMK Acu Creme: Regulates cell turnover, purifies, and maintains hydration.
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DMK Creme Citrique: Rebalancing moisturiser that supports hydration and P. acnes management.
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O Recovery Cream: Boosts repair mechanisms and strengthens the skin barrier.
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O Rebalancing Cream: Oil-free hydration for oily or problematic skins.
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Juvenate Relief Cream: Antibacterial and healing with colloidal silver, zinc, and vitamin E.
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Juvenate ReDesign Cream: Strengthens and deeply hydrates with beta glucan, arnica, and EFAs.
Oils and Mists
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DMK Seba E: Restores barrier function and prevents water loss.
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DMK Herb & Mineral Mist: Delivers vitamins and amino acids while increasing hydration.
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DMK Acu Mist: Antibacterial and hydrating, balances skin microbiome.
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O-Biome Spray: Protects microbiome and pH, can be used over skincare or makeup.
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Juvenate Phyto Protect Spray: Shields from pollutants and blue-light stress, supports skin’s natural defenses.
Drops
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DMK Melanotech Drops: Promotes healing, reduces pigmentation, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory.
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DMK Pore Reduction Drops: Calms redness and inflammation by inhibiting 5-Alpha Reductase.
Serums
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DMK Beta Gel: Immune-boosting topical water for hydration and repair.
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DMK Direct Delivery Vitamin C: Stimulates collagen and strengthens the skin.
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DMK Super Serum: Combines beta-glucan and vitamin C for immune support.
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O B3 Plus: Niacinamide serum balancing pH and oil for breakout-prone skin.
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O 3D Hyaluronic: Provides deep, long-term hydration to push trapped oil through.
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Juvenate B-Hydrated: Strengthens skin structure, balances pH, and reduces redness.
Specialty Products
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DMK Acu Klear: Fast-acting lotion that reduces and prevents congestion.
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DMK Acu Therm: Creates a pseudo-heat to dissolve sebum plugs and clear congestion.
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DMK Revitosin: Strengthens skin and regulates natural cell turnover at night.
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DMK At-Home Enzyme (Foamy Lift + Exoderma): Potent maintenance mask offering ¼ strength of in-clinic enzyme therapy.
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DMK Solar Damage Gel: Soothes, hydrates, and revitalises skin for a plumper, replenished look.