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Acne

There are two types of Acne..
Inflamed and Non-Inflamed.
acne 2.jpg

Acne

Inflamed Acne presents on the skin as very red, angry pimples that are usually deep and sore underneath the skin. It will be a mixture of pustular breakouts (pustules) on the surface, and larger non-pustular lesions (papules, nodules and cysts).

Where as Non-Inflamed Acne is a little more on the subtle side, consisting of open and closed comedones or the face becoming studded with white heads.

 

Inflammed
Acne

What is it?

Inflamed acne presents on the skin as very red, angry pimples that are usually deep and sore underneath the skin. It will be a mixture of pustular breakouts (pustules) on the surface, and larger non-pustular lesions (papules, nodules and cysts).

These are a result of an infection within the pilosebaceous unit, the hair follicle and oil gland. Acne is usually present on area of high sebum (oil) production such as the face, jaw, upper neck, chest and back.


Inflamed acne has four main contributors:

  1. Sebum (oil) quality and production

  2. Blockage of the hair follicle with dead skin cells (retention hyperkeratosis)

  3. Inflammation due to a by product of the P- acnes bacteria

  4. An impaired barrier due to over exfoliation or products that are too alkaline

 
Causes & triggers of acne.

Increased Sebum Production and quality of oil:
A main characteristic of acne is the increased sebum production and secretion. This is due to hormonal responses within the body - either through puberty, imbalances in sex hormones - or stress.

  1. An increase in sebum production is caused by hormones such as testosterone, insulin like growth factors and cortisol (stress hormone). The problem with acne is that the oil quality is very thick and waxy, leading to the creation of micro-comedones – clusters of compacted oil within the hair follicle. Acne is deceiving - it’s not always about what you can see on the surface! Which is one of the reasons why acne is a journey to clear the skin from the micro comedones or “little ticking time bombs” as we like to call them at The Lab! Often what you see on the surface actually started as a "micro comedo" 3-4 months earlier! And it takes several cycles to stop the formation of these.

    Stress plays a big role in increased inflammation in the body. Not only does it increase inflammation, but it also has the ability to bring visible bumps.
    Stress and stressors to the body, tells the receptors in the sebaceous glands to pump oil wayyy too fast (you'll see later why this is a problem. No wonder we recommend all acne clients get onto Relax supplements pronto...

    We work internally and externally with essential fatty acids to create a healthier quality oil so our skin cell membranes can function properly. This allows our skin to hold onto more water - which pushes those little "ticking time bombs" up and out...(which is why it's wroth celebrating when you break out in the beginning of your skin journey)

    2. Retention Hyperkeratosis – the dead cells don't shed fast enough
    Retention Hyperkeratosis is where the skin cells become “sticky” and don’t shed properly. That all too common feeling of wanting to exfoliate. The skin cells stick to the surface due to the lack of water and essential fatty acids in the skin (now you can see why EFAs are so important!).
    Our skin contains an enzyme call the Stratum Corneum Chymotryptic Enzyme, and its main job is to dissolve the bonds that hold these skin cells together so that they can detach naturally.
    This enzyme doesn’t work unless it has enough water in the skin to do so.
    And how do we get the skin more water? Well, by repairing the barrier - what keeps the water in? - EFA's (essential fatty acids) - which creates a waterproof layer on the surface of the skin AND with Enzyme Therapy, which floods the skin with water.



    3. P. Acnes Bacteria/ inflammation
    We have many different strains of bacteria and viruses on our skin which all form our microbiome. C Acnes Bacteria is one of them. And we ALL have them - whether you have acne or not. The C Acnes Bacteria’s job is to alter the pH of the sebum that is secreted from the sebaceous gland at the top of the hair follicle.
    In the case of acne though, this sebum is usually very thick and fast flowing, which, along with the dead cell material, causes a blockage in the follicle. This causes the C Acnes bacteria to migrate down into the hair shaft where it munches on the dead cells and oil and poops out a very irritating substance called Lipase.
    Lipase is very inflammatory. The more oil and dead cells collecting in the hair shaft, the happier the C acnes bacteria is - plenty of food! Plenty of food means plenty of bi-products - Lipase.




    4. An impaired barrier
    So this is how it all works:
    Too much thickened oil means it can't spread up to the surface of the skin.
    If it can't spread to the surface of the skin, you won't have that protective barrier which holds water in the skin.
    Without enough water in the skin, our desquamating enzymes fall asleep.
    When the desquamating enzymes fall asleep your skin doesn't exfoliate on its own.
    When the skin cant exfoliate on its own, pores get clogged...

    Can you see how this all works? It ALL starts with a healthy barrier and the right balance between oil and water? Which is why, my dear, if you OVER exfoliate you'll just be stripping that barrier away even more and make things worse...

Lifestyle Tips for Inflamed Acne.

Tip 1: Don't over-exfoliate

Exfoliating too much means you'll scrub away the skin's protective barrier, which means more inflammation and a slow down in the skin's natural shedding of dead cell material (remember this is what leads to the blockage within the pore).
Instead, use your Micro Peel 1-2 times per week as instructed by your skin therapist. Micro Peel contains a gentle blend of fruit acids to gently exfoliate dead cell material. Avoid abrasive exfoliants and scrubs...

Tip 2: Avoid excess touching of your skin

Don't pick your pimples, especially red,sore pimples (papules). Squeezing these makes the cell walls rupture, which means more scarring - and it allows more bacteria to escape into the surrounding tissue.
Instead, come into the clinic for a quick LED Light session or some extractions done correctly can make a huge difference.


Tip 3: Ice Ice..Rub an ice cube in circular motion over the area for 4-10 minutes (making sure not to stay too long in one place) to reduce inflammation. If you do this in the evening, apply Acu Therm afterwards, dab off the excess and follow with Revitosin.

Tip 4: Your phone ! Where you can, use headphones or earphones to answer phone calls.Everyone loves to stay in touch over the phone, though constantly having a phone to the side of your face adds more bacteria to your skin.

Tip 5: Treat inside out.It’s so important that we consciously work to reduce the inflammation topically AND internally. This is done by taking your internal supplements, such as EFA's, Zinc, Relax and gut health formulas.
We sometimes also refer to a naturopath if there are suspected intolerances or hormone imbalances.

Things to avoid

Highly inflammatory foods: sugars, dairy, wheat, seaweed, fast food, peanuts, and other high iodine food 

  • Vitamin B12 (unless deficient) and high amounts of Biotin and iodine (often found in Pre Natal supplements and Hair/Skin and Nail supplements

  • Over exfoliation with AHA/BHA granular scrubs or harsh acid based products.

  • “Drying” products (especially micellar waters, toners and non prescribed benzoyl peroxides)

  • Avoiding excess and unprotected sun exposure (it might feel nice but it actually increases sebum production)

  • Reducing internal stressors: implementing stress reducing practices and activities. Relax supplement is great to add!

  • Be cautious with excess bacteria: resting your phone on your cheek, excess skin touching, picking pimples, regularly washing pillowcases.

  • Stay away from fabric softeners and leave in hair conditioners as they leave a waxy film which can cause breakouts.

At Home Acne Treatments.

DMK Micro Peel + Acu Masque:

  • 1 tsp Micro Peel

  • Acu Masque or Foamy Lift with Exoderma Kit


Directions:

  1. Apply Micro Peel to cleansed skin. Leave on for 5-10 minutes, then wash off.

  2. Apply Acu Masque and leave on for a minimum of 30 minutes. If opting for the at home enzyme kit, leave on for 45 minutes then wash off.

  3. Follow with night routine.

Red Vein or Acu Therm and Home Enzyme

  • Red Vein Crème + Herb and Mineral Mist or Acu Therm

  • Foamy Lift with Exoderma Kit


Directions:

  1. Apply a small pea size amount of Red Vein Crème to clean face, spray with Herb and Mineral Mist and massage into affected areas for a good 3-5 minutes. Until all is soaked in. If opting for Acu Therm, apply a SMALL amount to red, sore pimples only and leave on for a few minutes or until red response. Wipe off excess.

  2. Apply at home enzyme kit, leave on for 45 minutes then wash off.

  3. Follow with your day time routine 

Please note:
Both Red Vein Creme and Acu Therm will feel hot and the skin turns very red – this isn't a reaction but intended outcome.


 

In Clinic Treatments.
  • DMK Enzyme Therapy with various exfoliants, like Alkaline wash, pseudo heat peels, Salicylic and Enzymatic Peels (levels 2,3 and 4 combined)

  • Exfoliation with LED Light Therapy

  • Dermapen for post acne scarring

  • O-Biome Oxygen Therapy | Clear Skin

  • Juvenate Hydration & Vitamin A infusions 

Home Prescriptive's

Cleansers 
DMK Deep Pore

Gentle non-stripping foaming cleanser with a hydrolysing action on debris held deep in the pores.

DMK Acu Klenz

A non drying, deep cleaning gel containing salicylic acid. Its deep penetrating and exfoliating action helps to keep pores clean while targeting existing acne and keeping your barrier function healthy.

O Cosmedics Gentle Antioxidant Cleanser

Hydrating, antioxidants , deep cleaning absorbing & trapping dirt.
 

Juvenate Photo Cleanse

Amino acids to balance ph , antioxidants to repel environmental toxins, anti-inflammatory, anti irritant

Drops
DMK Melanotech Drops

Promote healing, reduce and inhibit pigmentation and is antimicrobial, purifying and anti-inflammatory

DMK Pore Reduction Drops

Reduce redness and inflammation by inhibiting the formation of 5 Alpha Reductase

 

Serums 
DMK Beta Gel

Immune boosting serum and the "miracle healer" to help calm inflammation

 

DMK Super Serum

Combination of beta-glucan and vitamin c, stimulating the skins immune system helping with redness and inflammation.

DMK Acu Klear

This powerful Niacinamide, Aloe Vera and Salicylic acid lotion helps to quickly alleviate and reduce existing acne and prevent future breakouts, a fast acting solution designed to encourage faster eradication of pimples and congestion.

O Potent Clearing Serum

Perfect spot clearing for challenged problematic and hormonal skin breakouts

O B3 Plus

Niacinamide super immunity serum and ph & oil balancer for skins prone to breakouts and congestion.

O 3D Hyaluronic

Supports instant and long term hydration in the skin, which helps to push through trapped oil in the skin.

Juvenate B-Hydrated

Improves functional and structural strength of the skin while support skin barrier health. Manages negatives effects of stress on the skin aswell as beneficial for problematic skins with redness inflammation and acne.helps balance skin ph and function.

Mists
DMK Acu Mist

Is designed to control acne-causing bacteria, working to restore the skins acid barrier. Acu Mist contains powerful ingredients that act as an antibacterial agent. Acu Mist also works to soothe the skin and carry moisture into the skin, keeping it hydrated and glowy due to its rich nutrient ingredient profile. Spray sparingly on clean skin after cleansing, then apply your products.
TIP: If your skin is very sensitive or reactive, start by applying the mist on a cotton pad like a toner.

DMK Herb & Mineral Mist

Vitamins, mineral and amnio acids, aiding in trans dermal delivery and elevating free water levels in the upper skin tissues.

O- Biome Spray

Hydrating skin spray that helps protect skin microbiome and ph support. can also be used over skincare and makeup.

Juvenate Phyto Protect Spray - protects and shields against environmental pollutants

Reinforcing skins natural defences, contains pro and post biotics to support skin barrier & blue light defence to reduce stress to skin cells .

 

Moisturisers

DMK Acu Creme

Works to regulate cell turnover which purifies, and decongests the skin. Acu Creme works to prevent irritation and infection whilst also maintaining the skins natural moisture levels.


DMK Creme Citrique

A gentle rebalancing moisturiser designed to encourage the skin's continued hydration and enhance P-acnes bacteria guard support.

 

O Recovery Cream

Boost skins repair mechanism and natural epidermal growth factor, nourishing the skin.

 

O Rebalancing Cream

Oil free hydration for oily or problematic skins with skin rebalancing benefits 

 

Juvenate Relief Cream

Skin repair and moisture, aiding in healthy skin tissue, antiseptic and antibacterial , contains colloidal silver , natural skin healer providing oxygenation to the skin tissue. also contains zinc, vitamin e .

 

Juvenate ReDesign Cream

Cell correction & skin strengthening. packed full of hydration, essential fatty acids , beta glucan, arnica and more.

SPF 

Mesoestetic Mineral Matte fluid

Mesoestetic light water veil

O Mineral Pro 30 | 50

Juvenate ReSheild

Specialty products 

DMK Solar Damage Gel  

Soothes the skin and reduces inflammation. Restores the interstitial fluid of the epidermis bringing hydration and vitality back, creating a firmer plumper more replenished skin.


DMK Acu Therm

by creating a pseudo heat on the skin (a flushing action) this blemish gel dissolves sebum plugs relieving the pressure in congested areas helping to eliminate acne.

DMK Acu Mask 

a sulphur mask which helps to combat breakouts whilst soothing inflammation and clearing the skin. Acu Mask works to dissolve dead cells and sebum the block the pores, absorbing oil trapped within them.

DMK Micro Peel 

-This gentle, non-irritating exfoliant formulation works to remove dead cell material and debris quickly and easily.
 

DMK Actrol Powder 

Without drying out the skin Actrol Powder helps to absorb access oils and removes the excessive shine caused by overstimulated oil production better than talc. This powder is excellent for acne-prone skin as it works to eliminate the moist, damp environment in which bacteria thrives. Its soothing, and healing properties assist to reduce blemishes. Formulated with orange root, also known as the golden seal, Actrol Powder places a barrier over the skin which makes it suitable for treating wounds, rashes, sores and inflamed skin conditions.

O Multi Functional Peel

lactic acid as a leave on solution to hydrate and gently exfoliate redundant skin cells improving overall skin tone and health.

Juvenate Alpha Resurfacer

In particular the Pap-ango enzyme in this product is a great way to enzyme exfoliation without being to harsh on inflamed skins. helps to fight acne and free radicals . To activate enzyme this would need to be used with water, wet your hands and then apply apron 20c piece rub into finger tips then apply to skin and leave for 3-5 mins.

Non-Inflammed
Acne

Non- Inflammed Acne What is it?


Acne has four contributing causes:

  • Thickened oil

  • Fast cell turnover

  • Keratin plugging (clogged pore)

  • High PH (which means an impaired barrier function)

Non-inflamed acne comes in two grades.

Grade 1 - The mildest grade consisting of open and closed comedones.

Grade 2 - This is a unique type of acne where the face becomes studded with white heads. This process is called maturation arrest because the white heads don't go ahead and mature into blackheads. Instead, they continue to enlarge with the surface opening and never dilate, and therefore trapping the dead cell material inside.

Traveling up the scale then moves along to grade 3 & 4 Inflamed Acne which consists of inflamed papule's and pustules along with the milder stages of acne – open and closed comedones (whiteheads).

 

What triggers it ?


There is no single cause for acne prone skin. Acne can be a genetic condition or caused by external factors. Here are the most common triggers

  • Hormonal fluctuations

  • Stress

  • Medication

  • Climatic conditions

  • Cosmetic ingredients that irritate the skin and clog pores

  • Drugs

  • Hereditary disposition to acne

If both parents have acne, approximately three out of four of their children will develop acne. If one parent has acne, two of their four children will develop acne.

Stress and Hormonal imbalances is the number one aggravating factor in acne, a major factor which in turn contributes to the increased number of women with acne.

When under stress, the pituitary gland sends messages to the adrenal glands
to produce more androgens (male hormones). Extra male hormones circulating in the body set off a vicious cycle.

 

 

What foods to avoid ?

 

Foods highly recommended to avoid and why –

  • Dairy - cows milk is for cows- not humans! it contains Inflammatory Growth Factor (IGF-1) which is the stuff that makes little cows grow big - but it also triggers a huge inflammatory process in the skin for someone who have a tendency to break out.

  • High iodine foods such as seaweed, spirulina, large amounts of shellfish, greasy takeaway foods

  • Excessive Gluten

  • Excessive amounts of Coffee. Our favourite part of the day is drinking coffee,! Some of us thoroughly enjoy the tastes but others rely on the “adrenaline rush”. This in fact is also pumping up your cortisol levels (stress hormones), and sets off a chain reaction that makes your skin’s oil glands amp up and pump more oil. The oil gets trapped in the cell, mixed with a delicious mix of dead cell material - and here we have an acne formation...

  • High sugar foods - white bread  for instance as a high hyperglycaemic level. This causes the increase of blood insulin levels (sugar levels in the blood) and in turn enlargement of oil glands in the skin.

  • Vitamin B12, whey protein and Biotin supplements (many pre natal and hair/ skin/ nail supplements have a high amount of Biotin. If you start breaking out after starting to take some of these supplements, check with your doctor).

Fatty foods- as much as we all enjoy some delicious greasy bacon it is very high in saturated fats, which can increase inflammation in the body. This in return can cause congestion of your pores and lead to acne.

  • Peanuts and peanut butter

 

What foods to include ?

 

A diet of mostly unprocessed foods is also beneficial. So is drinking 2-3 litres of water a day to flush out toxins. Fresh veggies in every meal is going to be your best friend. Fresh fruit is also amazing but remember only in moderation as fruit is quite high in natural sugars.

Refined carbohydrates are absorbed quickly into the bloodstream, which rapidly raises blood sugar levels. When blood sugar levels rise, insulin levels also rise to help shuttle the blood sugars out of the blood cells and into the blood stream.

 

Foods / supplements to eat more of –

  • Almonds – keep your skin supple by keeping cell membranes hydrated

  • Berries – rich in antioxidants

  • Spinach – rich source of antioxidants

  • Walnuts – full of omega – 3 fatty acids

  • Wild Salmon –high in essential fatty acids

  • Broccoli – helps to detox your body, purify blood.

  • Green tea

  • Turmeric

  • Pre and Probiotics such as Regula8 Digestive Tuneup

  • Zinc

  • Omega – 3 fatty acids – salmon, maceral, cod liver oil, oysters, sardines, flax seeds, chia seeds.

It’s relatively easy to obtain plenty of omega-3s from whole foods, however if you aren’t obtaining enough from food DMK Ultra EFA and Nordic Naturals Ultimate Omega capsules are the perfect go- to supplement.

 

Home Prescriptive's

Cleansers 
Dmk Acu Klenz 

A deep cleansing gel containing salicylic acid. Its deep penetrating and exfoliating action helps to keep pores clean while drying up existing acne.

DMK Deep pore 

Gentle non-stripping foaming cleanser with a hydrolysing action

on debris held deep in the pores.

 

O Cosmedics Gentle Antioxidant Cleanser

Hydrating, antioxidants , deep cleaning absorbing & trapping dirt.
 

Juvenate Photo Cleanse

Amino acids to balance ph , antioxidants to repel environmental toxins, anti-inflammatory, anti irritant

Moisturisers 
DMK Acu Creme 

Works to regulate cell turnover which purifies, and decongests the skin. Acu Creme works to prevent irritation and infection whilst also maintaining the skins natural moisture levels.


DMK Creme Citrique

A gentle rebalancing moisturiser designed to encourage the skin's continued hydration and enhance P-acnes bacteria guard support.

O Recovery Cream

Boost skins repair mechanism and natural epidermal growth factor, nourishing the skin.

O Rebalancing Cream

Oil free hydration for oily or problematic skins with skin rebalancing benefits 

Juvenate Relief Cream

Skin repair and moisture, aiding in healthy skin tissue, antiseptic and antibacterial , contains colloidal silver , natural skin healer providing oxygenation to the skin tissue. also contains zinc, vitamin e .

Juvenate ReDesign Cream

Cell correction & skin strengthening. packed full of hydration, essential fatty acids , beta glucan, arnica and more.

 

Oils 
DMK Seba E

Restores the skin’s natural barrier function and prevents transepidermal water loss


DMK Herb & Mineral Mist

Vitamins, mineral and amnio acids, aiding in trans dermal delivery and elevating free water levels in the upper skin tissues.


DMK Acu Mist 

Is designed to control acne-causing bacteria, working to restore the skins acid barrier. Acu Mist contains powerful ingredients that act as an antibacterial agent. Acu Mist also works to soothe the skin and carry moisture into the skin, keeping it hydrated and glowy due to its rich nutrient ingredient profile. Spray sparingly on clean skin after cleansing, then apply your products.

O- Biome Spray

Hydrating skin spray that helps protect skin microbiome and ph support. can also be used over skincare and makeup.

 

Juvenate Phyto Protect Spray

Protects and shields against environmental pollutants reinforcing skins natural defences, contains pro and post biotics to support skin barrier & blue light defence to reduce stress to skin cells .

Drops 

DMK Melanotech Drops

Promote healing, reduce and inhibit pigmentation and is antimicrobial, purifying and anti-inflammatory

DMK Pore Reduction Drops –Reduce redness and inflammation by inhibiting the formation of 5 Alpha Reductase

Serums 
DMK Beta Gel

Immune boosting serum (topical water to the skin)

DMK Direct Delivery Vitamin C

Anti-ageing and antioxidant properties which is key to the production of collagen, a protein that aids in the growth of cells and blood vessels and gives skin its firmness and strength.

 

DMK Super Serum

Combination of beta-gel and vitamin c, stimulating the skins immune system .

 

O B3 Plus

Niacinamide super immunity serum and ph & oil balancer for skins prone to breakouts and congestion.

 

O 3D Hyaluronic 

Supports instant and long term hydration in the skin, which helps to push through trapped oil in the skin.

 

Juvenate B-Hydrated

Improves functional and structural strength of the skin while support skin barrier health. Manages negatives effects of stress on the skin aswell as beneficial for problematic skins with redn acne.helps balance skin ph and function.

Specialty products 
 

DMK Acu Klear

This powerful lotion helps to quickly alleviate and reduce existing acne and prevent future breakouts, a fast acting solution designed
to encourage faster eradication of pimples and congestion.

 

DMK Acu Therm

By creating a pseudo heat on the skin (a flushing action) this blemish gel dissolves sebum plugs relieving the pressure in congested areas helping to eliminate acne.

DMK Revitosin

A signature DMK formulation used at night time is designed to strengthen the skin and regulate the natural rhythm of cellular turnover.


DMK - At home Enzyme - (foamy lift & exoderma) 

When combined with Exoderma Peel, Foamy Lift is a potent home maintenance masque. ¼ strength of the in-clinic enzyme therapy but done in the comfort of your own home.

DMK Solar Damage Gel

Soothes the skin and reduces inflammation. Restores the interstitial fluid of the epidermis bringing hydration and vitality back, creating a firmer plumper more replenished skin.
 

 

Topical Home hacks to avoid
  • Toothpaste over breakouts / congestion

  • Tea tree oil

  • Methylated spirits

  • Applying oil type treatment- coconut oil,rose hip oil, lanolin etc.

  • Using Benzoyl Peroxide without proper guidance

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